Last year, Dolores’ brother and his wife, Jose and Stephanie, joined us on a trip to Mexico’s central region which was in the reverse order of this year’s re-visit. It was a first for the four of us and was a memorable experience not to be forgotten. This year we re-joined Roberta Valdez, Director of Alegre Events, her assistant Patty and 36 other travelers to explore the “heartland of Mexico” and some of Central Mexico’s so called “colonial cities.”
Our first stop, Guanajuato (the name means “place of frogs”), is one of Mexico’s most beautifully preserved colonial cities. Located at the bottom of a scenic canyon it was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1988. Leafy plazas, narrow, flowered, walking streets, and ornate mansions are the charm of this city. Attempting to understand Guanajuato’s narrow streets is an impossible task for the visitor. The streets simply follow the dictates of the terrain instead of a logical grid pattern. Traffic going west to east uses an antiquated tunnel which follows the original path of the Guanajuato River under the city. Little more than illumination and paving stones were used to turn the main tunnel into a traffic artery. A confusing network of subsidiary tunnels were added to alleviate heavy traffic. The cities layout was never intended to accommodate automobiles. The best way to check out the city is on foot along the narrow cobblestone streets, which lead to plazas and small squares. All this adds to the overall charm of this city. Our two-night stay was at a historic hotel off the centrally located Jardin Union, a park with an old fashioned, romantic atmosphere shaded by Indian laurel trees, and planted with flowers of all colors. This park has old fashioned lampposts, tiled, tree shaded walkways, outdoor cafes and a band shell for musical performances. You can see a group of Tunas (traditional university music group) traveling through the streets singing to the crowds. These colorful groups have their origins many centuries ago and the clothing (called "cricket" in Spanish) is derived from that of Iberian students of the 16th and 17th centuries.
Jardin Union
Tuna MonumentWhile most of the travelers went on a guided walking tour of Guanajuato (been there-done that) the next morning, Dolores and I descended from our “lofty” hotel room (5th floor straight-up) for a leisurely breakfast. We ordered egg omelets with a variety of different ingredients, i.e., onions, peppers, bacon, cheese. It arrived all cooked together, circular and flat, or as I’m often inclined to say, “stomped-on.” Contrary to its visual appearance it was tasty. Finishing our leisure breakfast san any company other than the waitress who I think also doubled as busgirl, and most likely cook, we departed the hotel to stroll about the narrow streets, exploring stores, discovering a wonderful candy emporium near the square, a purse store, the opulent Teatro Juarez (very European in appearance), and the Church of San Diego. We sat in the park and watched the strollers then eventually went back to our hotel and climbed “the stairways to the stars” to take a mid-day nap.
That evening we joined the rest of our group at the park, boarded taxis to take us to our planned restaurant, a beautiful hotel/restaurant with an unsurpassed overview of the city. Roberta, our tour director, had arranged for a private seating for the 20+ persons in our party. As drinks were being ordered I became a little concerned when ordering a vodka martini I saw my waiter furrow his forehead, write down the order then consult the floor manager standing close by. His question was “do they use vodka in martinis?” When the waiter returned with our drinks (late) we immediately placed our order and asked for separate checks by couple around the table. With a very perplexed face he again conferred with the floor manager and disappeared. While many of the other couples were conferring over the menu as to what they wanted to feast upon, our food arrived along with the drink order and Dolores and I enjoyed a satisfying meal. I watched as others received the main course before the appetizer, or the appetizer and no main course, or nothing… Eventually, when the bill was requested we received ours immediately while the waiter toured the remainder of the guests asking what they had for dinner. Just another reminder about being proactive while traveling! We went out to the veranda and enjoyed the view while the others settled there affairs.
Leaving Guanajuato after two nights we traveled to Dolores Hidalgo (known in Mexico as The Cradle of National independence). On September 15, 1810, Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla of Dolores gave the venerated Grito de Dolores(cry for freedom) , a proclamation that first declared Mexico’s freedom from Spain and ignited the 11 year war for independence. The statue of Hidalgo stands in the main square where vendors on each corner hawk their wares under square trimmed trees. Not the least among them are the various ice cream vendors with not only traditional flavors; but, exotic flavors such as Tequila, Beer, Pulque, Watermelon, Corn, Mole, Rose, Beet, Shrimp, etc. As we motored (?) around the square our guides and hosts were kept busy taking and filling orders from our fellow travelers. Did I get exotic…pistachio…I’d already tried Tequila from our last visit.
Father Hidalgo started the local tradition of making ceramics here, and today the town is famous for the Talavera Ceramics (pottery). We stopped at both ends of town to allow the shoppers there time to perform! The magnificent Independence Monument can be seen through the bus window.
Continuing from Dolores Hidalgo we arrived in the PM at San Miguel de Allende. Historically, this town is where local born Ignacio Allende and Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla planned the original uprising that led to the War of independence. As we arrived a scenic outlook gave us a wonderful overview of the town spread out and filling a bowl-shaped valley, dominated by the multispired parish church, La Parroquia. The many bright red and orange facades of the buildings added a Disneyesque touch to the overview
.Because of its location, San Miguel’s weather is warm and dry most of the year. Winter nights can be chilly and we experienced one of those nights on our second day. High winds coupled with 50 degree temperatures made most of us grateful we had brought jackets and sweaters. The inn that we stayed at was roomy and comfortable and approximately a 5-8 minute trip to the main plaza. Shaded by laurel trees, it’s a great place to relax and observe the local scene. La Parroquia is located at this plaza. Most of the cities attractions are within easy walking distance and San Miguel shoes are sold by several stores near the plaza. Why would I mention San Miguel shoes – Dolores would have to answer that since she owns 30+pairs and purchased three more styles
while there – she is giving Imelda Marcos a run for the money.
Imelda Competition
Can I have them all?The first evening Roberta took us to a 275 acre development only 2.5kms. from San Miguel de Allende named Los Senderos. Even our driver had to search for the location, but after a couple false starts he located the street and then the entrance. The coach cleared the security gates by barely inches then we proceeded along a primitive but graveled road with three jack-rabbits leading the way. This secure parkland includes a 10,000 square foot winery, an Equestrian Center, planned home sites, event facilities, a Thermal Spa - and a Bistro, our designation for the evening. They grow much of their food in gardens adjacent to the bistro which are surrounded by electrified fencing to keep the jack rabbits and other local animals at bay. The menu had been preplanned due to the large size of our group and the food, wine, and warm evening were superb. This place is a must repeat!
Los Senderos -The Bistro
And the GardensThe next day I accompanied Dolores, Ruth and daughter Elaine to discover San Miguel shoes and the purchases mentioned earlier. Dolores was not feeling her normal 100 percent so we left San Miguel shopping to the capable hands of the mother-daughter team and returned to the hotel for relaxing. Later that evening, at Dolores insistence, I re-joined Ruth and Elaine for a special dinner of venison at Nirvanas, an outstanding restaurant with a courtyard and a nicely decorated inside lounge/dining room. The venison is farmed in Mexico and was excellent. Seeing Roberta just before I left for dinner I asked if she would check on Dolores later in the evening. When I returned I found that she had ordered hot chicken soup, rolls and tea, brought it to Dolores then spent dinner with her in our room. WOW! Way above and beyond. .
After two evenings in San Miguel we departed in the AM for Tonala (Guadalajara) via León which is the fifth most populous city in Mexico. It has a strong leather industry, offering shoes, boots, belts, jackets, and other leather accessories both to national and international markets. It is also called the “footwear” capital of Mexico and has excellent prices. In the 1 ½ hours we were allowed to shop I managed three pairs of shoes, two leather belts and a camera case, while Dolores added two more pursues to her collection. Many of our fellow travelers did as well – or much better. We then went to lunch at the notorious Panteon Taurino restaurant. This fun restaurant was started by three retired matadors, is designed like a bull ring, the granite tables are like gravestones with the names of famous bull-fighters and the bull who “won.” The food is wonderful and after several tequilas they get the “braver” patrons to get on stage and act like matadors. I was under the table…lol.
After two evenings in San Miguel we departed in the AM for Tonala (Guadalajara) via León which is the fifth most populous city in Mexico. It has a strong leather industry, offering shoes, boots, belts, jackets, and other leather accessories both to national and international markets. It is also called the “footwear” capital of Mexico and has excellent prices. In the 1 ½ hours we were allowed to shop I managed three pairs of shoes, two leather belts and a camera case, while Dolores added two more pursues to her collection. Many of our fellow travelers did as well – or much better. We then went to lunch at the notorious Panteon Taurino restaurant. This fun restaurant was started by three retired matadors, is designed like a bull ring, the granite tables are like gravestones with the names of famous bull-fighters and the bull who “won.” The food is wonderful and after several tequilas they get the “braver” patrons to get on stage and act like matadors. I was under the table…lol.
A fellow MatadorAfter lunch we departed for Tonala, checked into our hotel and went shopping for “whatever each traveler had to have? Dolores needed some additional dishes to add to our cooking school collection; however, the evening was late, most of the stores had closed, and we had to wait until morning. With an early wakeup, and a quick breakfast at our favorite cantina, we were able to make all our purchases, have them packed and delivered to our hotel for loading onto the coach, with minutes to spare! Departure was a 12:00 PM with arrival back in Puerto Vallarta at
Decision/Decision/Decision
Roberta always brings a DVD series along to show on the bus video system. This time it was the first two seasons of the HBO series “Rome.” This was a great distraction to the long bus ride.
Another adventure concluded with abundant smiles by all!
approximately 6:00 PM.
Decision/Decision/DecisionRoberta always brings a DVD series along to show on the bus video system. This time it was the first two seasons of the HBO series “Rome.” This was a great distraction to the long bus ride.
Another adventure concluded with abundant smiles by all!
